>> The easiest solution is to get an RMA number from the website. *If the
>> procedure there requires a failed SMART status or other failed status,
>> sometimes it helps to claim the disk is not detected anymore (they
>> usually do not check the disk, just send you a replacement).
>>
> They didn't ask last time. That made me wonder about the quality of
> refurbished drives. Do they go through strict testing and fix things
> before putting them out as refurbished drives? This drive is still
> formattable and probably will resurface as a refurbished drive again
> soon. What I'm getting back is probably just as bad or worse. Is my
> concern valid? I never had a refurbished drives (4-5 so far) lasting
> more than one year so far. And all of these were not used as main
> drives. They were turned on only when needed. Is there a program you
> can test to make sure it's a good drive after getting a drive?
>> The easiest solution is to get an RMA number from the website. *If the
>> procedure there requires a failed SMART status or other failed status,
>> sometimes it helps to claim the disk is not detected anymore (they
>> usually do not check the disk, just send you a replacement).
>>
> They didn't ask last time. That made me wonder about the quality of
> refurbished drives. Do they go through strict testing and fix things
> before putting them out as refurbished drives? This drive is still
> formattable and probably will resurface as a refurbished drive again
> soon. What I'm getting back is probably just as bad or worse. Is my
> concern valid? I never had a refurbished drives (4-5 so far) lasting
> more than one year so far. And all of these were not used as main
> drives. They were turned on only when needed. Is there a program you
> can test to make sure it's a good drive after getting a drive?
> Thanks for the advice!
Wellm for modern drive the only thing you can do is a long
SMART selftest. Not too reliable, unfortunately.
> I have this external USB HD that I only turn it on when needed. One
> time, when trying to mount, it asked if I would like to check the HD.
> I clicked yes, and it started checking for a while but stopped at 99%.
> Maybe I was too impatient, I turn it off and tried to mount it again.
> After attempting with disk reading noise, it couldn't. It gave a
> message that the HD needed to be formatted to use.
www.hddguru.com has some diagnostics, including the self-booting MHDD.
Is it possible to remove the HD from the USB enclosure and plug it
directly to a parallel or serial IDE connector so that the HD
manufacturer's own diagnostics can be run on it? Could the HD itself
be OK but the USB enclosure be the problem? Some enclosures have
internal power supplies that are terribly built.
> > This is a replacement drive. Gee they give you a refurbished drive
> > that does not last even more than 3 months. What a crap. I will not
> > buy any Seagate drive again. None of them survive more than 2 years.
>
> They used to be good, just like IBM. However their new "made in
> china" drives are really bad, and that they let them get to
> market is a strong reason not to buy Seagate again until their
> is good reason to believe they got their act together again.
>
> I think currently you can only buy Samsung or Hitachi. WD
> is really as bad as the rumours are, with drives that have
> long error recovery latency. And Maxtor, well, don't think I
> need to comment. I used to think thet their drive quality would
> improve when Seagate bought them, but it seems to have worked
> out the other way round.
Is Samsung quality really OK? Because I recently bought a Samsung
750GB model HD753LJ, and the first sample vibrated more than any other
HD I've tried, except for a Buffalo external USB drive that contained
a 250GB Samsung. The second Samsung 750GB sample has been fine,
though, and I like the 5-year warranty.
Arno Wagner wrote in news:691kdqF2uu8qtU3@mid.individual.net
> Previously cpliu <spamfreeliu@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I have this external USB HD that I only turn it on when needed. One
> > time, when trying to mount, it asked if I would like to check the HD.
> > I clicked yes, and it started checking for a while but stopped at 99%.
> > Maybe I was too impatient, I turn it off and tried to mount it again.
> > After attempting with disk reading noise, it couldn't.
>
> Not good.
>
> > It gave a message that the HD needed to be formatted to use.
> > The drive changed its name to "Local Drive."
> That is what it does, if reading the MBR fails.
Nonsense.
>
> > I tried a few programs and it seems that I can recover files
> > with programs such as R-Studio but I can't mount the drive.
> > It's rather inconvenient to retrieve files this way.
>
> Count yourself lycky you can retrive files.
>
> > I'd like to mount the drive and copy some files and then reformat the drive.
> Not a good idea. Expect it do die completely any time.
Utter nonsense. That's what you should expect of any drive.
That's why one does backups.
>
> > Is there a program to mount a HD like the condition my HD is in?
> No.
Really?
> And you can expect that this disk will die completely very soon.
Only because it was shutdown while it was writing.
Oh Babblebot, you're insights are the greatest.
>> > This is a replacement drive. Gee they give you a refurbished drive
>> > that does not last even more than 3 months. What a crap. I will not
>> > buy any Seagate drive again. None of them survive more than 2 years.
>>
>> They used to be good, just like IBM. However their new "made in
>> china" drives are really bad, and that they let them get to
>> market is a strong reason not to buy Seagate again until their
>> is good reason to believe they got their act together again.
>>
>> I think currently you can only buy Samsung or Hitachi. WD
>> is really as bad as the rumours are, with drives that have
>> long error recovery latency. And Maxtor, well, don't think I
>> need to comment. I used to think thet their drive quality would
>> improve when Seagate bought them, but it seems to have worked
>> out the other way round.
> Is Samsung quality really OK? Because I recently bought a Samsung
> 750GB model HD753LJ, and the first sample vibrated more than any other
> HD I've tried, except for a Buffalo external USB drive that contained
> a 250GB Samsung. The second Samsung 750GB sample has been fine,
> though, and I like the 5-year warranty.
I have several Samsungs, and yes, most of them vibrate. It is
an issue when installing more than one (you get very annoying
inteference), but it does not seem to affect reliability.
The oldest one I have still in use is about 4.5 years old,
vibrates and is perfectly fine otherwise.
Rod Speed wrote in news:69baohF31jhcgU1@mid.individual.net
> cpliu <spamfreeliu@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > > The easiest solution is to get an RMA number from the website.
> > > If the procedure there requires a failed SMART status or other failed
> > > status, sometimes it helps to claim the disk is not detected anymore
> > > (they usually do not check the disk, just send you a replacement).
>
> > They didn't ask last time. That made me wonder about the
> > quality of refurbished drives. Do they go through strict testing
> > and fix things before putting them out as refurbished drives?
>
> Yes, but if the fault is intermittent, it may not be visible when they do that.
>
> > This drive is still formattable and probably will
> > resurface as a refurbished drive again soon.
>
> Not if they can see the problem when it gets back to them.
>
> > What I'm getting back is probably just as bad or worse. Is my concern valid?
>
> No, some refurbished drives have been properly fixed.
>
> > I never had a refurbished drives (4-5 so far) lasting more than one year so far.
>
> How long do the new ones last ?
>
> > And all of these were not used as main drives. They were turned on only when needed.
> > Is there a program you can test to make sure it's a good drive after getting a drive?
> Not with an intermittent fault.
Nonsense.
With intermittent faults one uses the exerciser portion of a diagnostic.
Arno Wagner wrote in news:69bm1dF30hje8U2@mid.individual.net
> Previously cpliu <spamfreeliu@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > > The easiest solution is to get an RMA number from the website. If the
> > > procedure there requires a failed SMART status or other failed status,
> > > sometimes it helps to claim the disk is not detected anymore (they
> > > usually do not check the disk, just send you a replacement).
> > >
> > They didn't ask last time. That made me wonder about the quality of
> > refurbished drives. Do they go through strict testing and fix things
> > before putting them out as refurbished drives? This drive is still
> > formattable and probably will resurface as a refurbished drive again
> > soon. What I'm getting back is probably just as bad or worse. Is my
> > concern valid? I never had a refurbished drives (4-5 so far) lasting
> > more than one year so far. And all of these were not used as main
> > drives. They were turned on only when needed. Is there a program you
> > can test to make sure it's a good drive after getting a drive?
>
> > Thanks for the advice!
> Wellm for modern drive the only thing you can do is a long SMART selftest.
Babblebot, as cluesless as it 'll always be.
> Not too reliable, unfortunately.
Hell no, shock horror. And that's what you always recommended, babblebot.
2345 wrote in news:4830745d$0$11487$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au
> Arno Wagner <me@privacy.net> wrote:
> > Previously cpliu <spamfreeliu@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > On May 15, 7:47 pm, Arno Wagner <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
> > > > Previously cpliu <spamfree...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > > So this is a hardware problem and not a system problem? I can
> > > > > retreive the files but it takes a long time to compare. It would
> > > > > be nicer if I can mount it to desktop and compare folder sizes to
> > > > > decide which files I may not have backup copies.
> > > >
> > > > I think this is a hardware problem, yes.
> > > >
> > > > > This is a replacement drive. Gee they give you a refurbished drive
> > > > > that does not last even more than 3 months. What a crap. I will not
> > > > > buy any Seagate drive again. None of them survive more than 2
> > > > > years.
> > > >
> > > > They used to be good, just like IBM. However theri new "made in
> > > > china" drives are really bad, and that they let them get to
> > > > market is a strong reason not to buy Seagate again until their
> > > > is good reason to believe they got their act together again.
> > > >
> >
> > > This one is the 500GB Seagate (ST350064) made in Singapore. I decided
> > > to experiment to see what I can get from this drive. I formatted it
> > > with Vista and it took 7 hours. It probably found many bad sectors
> > > but it still showed 465GB of space. Does windows formatting tool
> > > screen out the bad sectors so data won't be written on the bad
> > > sectors?
> >
> > I think it does on a long (slow) format.
> Nope, the drive itself does, not Win.
Bwahahah.
>
> > The problem is that a large number of defects in a modern HDD
> > is very likely not due to surface defects, but some other problem,
> Always, not very likely.
The english makes no sense there either.
>
> > i.e. the defects are not done with when they are mapped out,
> The english makes no sense there.
Because he's not, obviously.
>
> > but new ones will appear.
>
> Yep.
>
> > > It's probably not a safe HD to use anyway. What program can I find
> > > the condition of the HD so I can request for a warranty replacement?
> > > Under what condition will they allow replacement?
>
> > The easiest solution is to get an RMA number from the website. If the
> > procedure there requires a failed SMART status or other failed status,
> > sometimes it helps to claim the disk is not detected anymore (they
> > usually do not check the disk, just send you a replacement).
>
> > If you really have to kill the drive, any tool that writes data to it
> > in a loop should to, though some amount of random access helps.
> > I did this once by decompressing Linux kernel sources to a drive
> > and then deleting them again. Loop until drive fails. A disk wiper
> > set to maximum number of overwrites may also do the trick.
> > This approach is best done with a test system or left running
> > when at work/shool/whatever. Took 3 days to kill the drive
> > permanently in my case (old maxtor 200GB drive).
>
> I killed one with a lab power supply. Surprisingly hard to kill but I
> did eventually manage to blow the side right out of one of the ics.
Previously Odie <Fr8dnot@slapdog.org> wrote:
> Arno Wagner wrote in news:691kdqF2uu8qtU3@mid.individual.net
>> Previously cpliu <spamfreeliu@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> > I have this external USB HD that I only turn it on when needed. One
>> > time, when trying to mount, it asked if I would like to check the HD.
>> > I clicked yes, and it started checking for a while but stopped at 99%.
>> > Maybe I was too impatient, I turn it off and tried to mount it again.
>> > After attempting with disk reading noise, it couldn't.
>>
>> Not good.
>>
>> > It gave a message that the HD needed to be formatted to use.
>> > The drive changed its name to "Local Drive."
>
>> That is what it does, if reading the MBR fails.
> Nonsense.
>>
>> > I tried a few programs and it seems that I can recover files
>> > with programs such as R-Studio but I can't mount the drive.
>> > It's rather inconvenient to retrieve files this way.
>>
>> Count yourself lycky you can retrive files.
>>
>> > I'd like to mount the drive and copy some files and then reformat the drive.
>
>> Not a good idea. Expect it do die completely any time.
> Utter nonsense. That's what you should expect of any drive.
> That's why one does backups.
>>
>> > Is there a program to mount a HD like the condition my HD is in?
>> No.
> Really?
>> And you can expect that this disk will die completely very soon.
> Only because it was shutdown while it was writing.
> Oh Babblebot, you're insights are the greatest.
>>
>> Arno
Impersonating other people again, because nobody is listening
tou you anymore? Pathetic.