Somewhere on teh interweb Brett Kline typed:
> ~misfit~ wrote:
>>
>> I fully realised that Tjunction does not change, that it's constant
>> for any given processor. My question, which I was still unable to
>> answer after reading those links (and links) was related to the
>> difference between the Tjunction of the Q6600 (100°C) and the E4500
>> (85°C). Does this mean that the Q6600 can run hotter than the E4500?
>
> The Q6600 G0 and the E4500 M0 can be ran to 73°C.
> The Q6600 B3 stepping can be ran to 63°C.
>
>
>
> Versions of Core Temp prior to .95.4 read Tjunction of the Q6600 as
> 85°C. Version 95.4 reads it as 100°C.
>
>
> The simple answer is don't concern yourself with Tjunction at all.
> Keep Tcase as low as you can; stress test, and ship it out. Any C2D
> will throttle or simply halt before damage is done.
Thanks for that Brett. I realise that it'll throttle before damage occurs
but I think it'd be better to have a slower CPU speed with no throttling
than a faster one that throttles?
Somewhere on teh interweb Paul typed:
> ~misfit~ wrote:
>> Hey,
>>
>> I'm just OCing and stressing a new build for a mate. Asus P5K-Deluxe
>> WiFi-AP with a G0 Q6600 topped with a Thermaltake Big Typhoon. The
>> case isn't the best in the world for ventilation (Gigabyte 3D
>> Aurora) but it's also not the worst. 1 x 120mm in the front, 2 x
>> 120mm in the back as well as the PSU and 8800GTX exhausting out the
>> back. I have it clocked at 3.2GHz at the moment, (400 x 8) stressing with
>> Prime95 ver. 25.5. It's been running for over an hour now with CPU-Z
>> giving a vcore under load of 1.280V. (These P5K BIOS settings are
>> all over the place, you have to set it, then check in Windows to see
>> how far out it is. It's et to 1.375 in BIOS.)
>>
>> The hottest it's got, in a 20°C room, according to CoreTemp is 68°C.
>> What do you guys (and gals?) think of that? Should I give it to him
>> like that? He's a gamer but I don't think he has any games that
>> would put the load on the cores that Prime does. I had the vcore in
>> BIOS one setting lower and Prime threw up an error. Seems good as it
>> is though. He wants it overclocked, mainly for bragging rights I suspect.
>> He
>> has gamer friends who know jack about OCing. He has a tame OCer in
>> me, and gives me his cast-offs when he upgrades for building his new
>> machines. I got a 7800GT, a 120GB IDE HDD, and IDE LG DVD writer, a
>> Samsung CD writer and his old case (average) for doing this build.
>> It's been a PITA too, he got a bolt-thru kit but not until after I'd
>> already built it. I had to remove the mobo to fit it, then do the
>> screws up with pliers (15° turns at a time, heatpipes everywhere)as
>> the cooler is too big for me to get a screwdriver near the screws.
>> The 8800GTX is a *very* tight fit, extremely tricky to put in and
>> take out. Sorry, I digress. Temps? Ok or not? Also, why does CoreTemp
>> give a
>> Tjunction of 100°C for the Q6600 and "only" 85°C for my E4500? Does
>> that mean it can run hotter?
>>
>> TIA,
>
>
> A tool like "RMClock" can display whether throttling is occurring. I
> don't know if RMClock is quad compatible or not.
>
> http://cpu.rightmark.org/download.shtml
> http://cpu.rightmark.org/products/rmclock.shtml (list Kentsfield
> here, so I guess so)
Hmmm. I have RMClock here, and installed on my E4500. I just didn't think to
install it on the Q6600 as it tells me nothing on my rig that the other
utilities don't already tell me. Except throttle I s'pose, and as my rig
runs at 50° max it never throttles. Didn't think to run it on that rig,
didn't want to clutter the systray with *three* icons. (What's up with that
anyway?)
> The digital temperature measurement inside the processor, is measured
> with respect to Tcase_max. That means, as the temperature gets up to
> Tcase_max, the register containing the temperature is just about reading
> zero.
> To get the absolute temperature, versus the relative temperature register,
> any measurement tool must know what the Tcase_max is for the product.
>
> If you had access to that "register value", at the instant the
> reading hits zero, you should see throttling start to occur. From an end
> user
> point of view, that is the thing you want to avoid, from a cooling design
> standpoint. So with your quad core Prime95 test running, you want enough
> cooling
> in place, so that throttling is not seen in RMClock, or the raw
> measurement from
> a tool that can access the HECI temperature measurement, is not
> hitting the zero value.
>
> The Big Typhoon is optimized for silent cooling, as opposed to the
> absolute best cooling. You can change the fan on it, to do better, at the
> expense of extra noise. Or switch to something like a Tuniq Tower.
Yeah. In New Zealand we're not spoilt for choice and we don;t have fiercly
competitive suppliers such as folks in the US enjoy. I read good reviews
about the Big Typhoon (one review site used it as their reference when
testing other coolers). The rheostat (?) is on full throttle, it's moving
some air.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835154001
>
> Thermal resistance 0.16 to 0.21C/W.
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Tuniq-Tower-120-pr-3593.html
>
> The Zalman CNPS9700 is listed here as having thermal resistance of
> 0.12 to 0.16 °C/W, which is better. To compute temperature rise, theta_R *
> power_in_watts gives temp rise in degrees C. The Q6600 is 95 watts,
> but you have to scale that by the degree of overclock, and also scale by
> the ratio of voltages
> squared. (If stock was 1.28V and you actually applied 1.375, then
> 1.375/1.28 squared is a factor of 1.154x more.) 95W * (3.2/2.4) * 1.154 =
> 146W. And 146W
> times the 0.12 of a CNPS9700 would give a temp rise of 17.5C above case
> air
> temp.
> http://www.crazypc.com/products/50992.html
>
> The Thermalright Ultra 120 did well here.
> http://www.pcper.com/article.php?aid...e=expert&pid=4
>
> The Ultra 120 Extreme version is listed here as measured at 0.15C/W.
> With a more aggressive fan, it might even do better than that.
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article759-page3.html
Thanks for all that.
> There are plenty of choices out there, and always something new.
Just not so much if you live in NZ. US suppliers either won't ship or
shipping is more than the item and Australian suppliers are similar. To get
my ThermalRight bolt-thru kit I had the local agent get me one in from
Taiwan. There just isn't the variety here.
> To aid a good CPU cooler, a high volume exhaust fan near the exit also
> helps. A performance CPU cooler can't do the job, if there is a cloud
> of hot air around the cooler.
His case has two 120mm fans exhausting from 'under' the Big Typhoon;
Still, though, as I ran Prime, I watched the cores/case temp climb for the
first few minutes until it stabilised after about 5 minutes. It could do
with btreathing better. More inlets into the case would be suitable, I've
suggested he get a 120mm hole cut in the case window and mount a fan
directly above the cooler fan and duct it. That would really improve it.
> That is one of the reasons, I use one of
> these :-) I power this from a Molex connector, not a motherboard
> header. I also have a home made voltage reducer, as this is too noisy at a
> full 12V. It also helps to use a few extra holes on the front of the
> case (like remove some drive bay covers), to get enough air to feed
> that thing. I only bought this fan locally, as an impulse purchase,
> when I saw the fan had a metal frame rather than the usual plastic
> frame.
> http://www.circuittest.com/English/C...A1212038MS.asp
That's a beast of a fan. I have a few fans here similar (120mm x 38mm) only
three bladed. I can't find one of the aluminium framed ones at the moment
(and flatmates asleep) but I did find a plastic one I have a couple of.
Nidec Beta V (TA450DC). It appears to have a small thermistor sticking out
from the motor body so I assume is self-throttling. It'd have to be, it's a
powerful beast. It actually has "Made in U.S.A." on it.
Ahh, here it is, seems it may have come from a Dell or Compaq server:
On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 15:18:04 +1300, ~misfit~ <misfit61nz@yahoot.com.au> wrote:
: Somewhere on teh interweb Howard Goldstein typed:
: > On Thu, 06 Dec 2007 17:18:22 GMT, Fishface <invalid@ddress.ok?> wrote:
: >> ~misfit~ wrote:
: >>> I have it clocked at 3.2GHz at the moment, (400 x 8) stressing with
: >>> Prime95
: >>> ver. 25.5. It's been running for over an hour now with CPU-Z giving
: >>> a vcore under load of 1.280V. (These P5K BIOS settings are all over
: >>> the place, you have to set it, then check in Windows to see how far
: >>> out it is. It's et to 1.375 in BIOS.)
: >>>
: >>> The hottest it's got, in a 20°C room, according to CoreTemp is
: >>> 68°C. What do you guys (and gals?) think of that? Should I give it
: >>> to him like that? He's a gamer but I don't think he has any games
: >>> that would put the load on the cores that Prime does. I had the
: >>> vcore in BIOS one setting lower and Prime threw up an error. Seems
: >>> good as it is though.
: >>
: >> FWIW, those are the temperatures I saw at 3.2 GHz with identical
: >> vCore.
: >
: > I'd be thrilled with those temps. I was up around 75 at that clock
: > but I needed more vcore for stability (39C inside the case)
:
: His case temp is around the same, (although I don't know where the
: thermistor is that reads it). I've advised him to get a 120mm cut-out above
: the Big Typhoon 120mm fan and fit a case fan to feed the cooler with ambient
: temp air. That shoud decrease core temps maybe 10°C. Whether he does it or
: not remains to be seen.
That's great advice. None of us should have that much heat in the box.
I'm still trying to find the magic bullet that'll ventilate this quiet
Antec P182 case without whoooshing me away with noise, but it's not
working still >10C over ambient. Must be airflow?
Any advice on forming baffles to help direct internal airflow?
There's 100CFM actively sucked out and 50CFM actively pushed in.
'Howard Goldstein' wrote, in part;
| That's great advice. None of us should have that much heat in the box.
| I'm still trying to find the magic bullet that'll ventilate this quiet
| Antec P182 case without whoooshing me away with noise, but it's not
| working still >10C over ambient. Must be airflow?
|
| Any advice on forming baffles to help direct internal airflow?
| There's 100CFM actively sucked out and 50CFM actively pushed in.
_____
Baffles, we don' need no stinking baffles.
Try reversing the fan functions; have the 100 CFM fan blowing in, the 50 CFM
fan blowing out. This will have the added advantage of allowing you to
filter all the air since the case will operate at a slightly positive air
pressure. This one change may or may not help the inside case ambient
temperature, but it will keep dust out.
Also get a digital thermometer with a remote probe (RadioShack, less than
$20 US, maybe less than $10 US on sale) to measure temperatures in various
locations inside the case, as well as the temperature of the air leaving the
case.
Phil Weldon
"Howard Goldstein" <hgoldste@mpcs.com> wrote in message
news:1197037682.16356@news.queue.to...
| On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 15:18:04 +1300, ~misfit~ <misfit61nz@yahoot.com.au>
wrote:
| : Somewhere on teh interweb Howard Goldstein typed:
| : > On Thu, 06 Dec 2007 17:18:22 GMT, Fishface <invalid@ddress.ok?> wrote:
| : >> ~misfit~ wrote:
| : >>> I have it clocked at 3.2GHz at the moment, (400 x 8) stressing with
| : >>> Prime95
| : >>> ver. 25.5. It's been running for over an hour now with CPU-Z giving
| : >>> a vcore under load of 1.280V. (These P5K BIOS settings are all over
| : >>> the place, you have to set it, then check in Windows to see how far
| : >>> out it is. It's et to 1.375 in BIOS.)
| : >>>
| : >>> The hottest it's got, in a 20°C room, according to CoreTemp is
| : >>> 68°C. What do you guys (and gals?) think of that? Should I give it
| : >>> to him like that? He's a gamer but I don't think he has any games
| : >>> that would put the load on the cores that Prime does. I had the
| : >>> vcore in BIOS one setting lower and Prime threw up an error. Seems
| : >>> good as it is though.
| : >>
| : >> FWIW, those are the temperatures I saw at 3.2 GHz with identical
| : >> vCore.
| : >
| : > I'd be thrilled with those temps. I was up around 75 at that clock
| : > but I needed more vcore for stability (39C inside the case)
| :
| : His case temp is around the same, (although I don't know where the
| : thermistor is that reads it). I've advised him to get a 120mm cut-out
above
| : the Big Typhoon 120mm fan and fit a case fan to feed the cooler with
ambient
| : temp air. That shoud decrease core temps maybe 10°C. Whether he does it
or
| : not remains to be seen.
|
| That's great advice. None of us should have that much heat in the box.
| I'm still trying to find the magic bullet that'll ventilate this quiet
| Antec P182 case without whoooshing me away with noise, but it's not
| working still >10C over ambient. Must be airflow?
|
| Any advice on forming baffles to help direct internal airflow?
| There's 100CFM actively sucked out and 50CFM actively pushed in.
|
On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 10:19:58 -0500, Phil Weldon <not.disclosed@example.com> wrote:
: 'Howard Goldstein' wrote, in part;
: | That's great advice. None of us should have that much heat in the box.
: | I'm still trying to find the magic bullet that'll ventilate this quiet
: | Antec P182 case without whoooshing me away with noise, but it's not
: | working still >10C over ambient. Must be airflow?
: |
: | Any advice on forming baffles to help direct internal airflow?
: | There's 100CFM actively sucked out and 50CFM actively pushed in.
: _____
:
: Baffles, we don' need no stinking baffles.
:
: Try reversing the fan functions; have the 100 CFM fan blowing in, the 50 CFM
: fan blowing out. This will have the added advantage of allowing you to
: filter all the air since the case will operate at a slightly positive air
: pressure. This one change may or may not help the inside case ambient
: temperature, but it will keep dust out.
I'll try that - thank you. RIght now I have the two at the corner of
the case near the CPU exhausting. I'll turn the one on the rear and
the one by the old hot IDE drive up front around but leave the top fan
exhausting, then try the other permutations to see what works best.
:
: Also get a digital thermometer with a remote probe (RadioShack, less than
: $20 US, maybe less than $10 US on sale) to measure temperatures in various
: locations inside the case, as well as the temperature of the air leaving the
: case.
I can do this with the 4 sensors on the drive bay thingie. You still happy with your non-contact thermometer?
'Howard Goldstein' wrote, in part:
| I can do this with the 4 sensors on the drive bay thingie.
| You still happy with your non-contact thermometer?
_____
Very happy with the non-contact thermometer; especially the price!
Phil Weldon
"Howard Goldstein" <hgoldste@mpcs.com> wrote in message
news:1197050628.38254@news.queue.to...
| On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 10:19:58 -0500, Phil Weldon <not.disclosed@example.com>
wrote:
| : 'Howard Goldstein' wrote, in part;
| : | That's great advice. None of us should have that much heat in the box.
| : | I'm still trying to find the magic bullet that'll ventilate this quiet
| : | Antec P182 case without whoooshing me away with noise, but it's not
| : | working still >10C over ambient. Must be airflow?
| : |
| : | Any advice on forming baffles to help direct internal airflow?
| : | There's 100CFM actively sucked out and 50CFM actively pushed in.
| : _____
| :
| : Baffles, we don' need no stinking baffles.
| :
| : Try reversing the fan functions; have the 100 CFM fan blowing in, the
50 CFM
| : fan blowing out. This will have the added advantage of allowing you to
| : filter all the air since the case will operate at a slightly positive
air
| : pressure. This one change may or may not help the inside case ambient
| : temperature, but it will keep dust out.
|
| I'll try that - thank you. RIght now I have the two at the corner of
| the case near the CPU exhausting. I'll turn the one on the rear and
| the one by the old hot IDE drive up front around but leave the top fan
| exhausting, then try the other permutations to see what works best.
|
| :
| : Also get a digital thermometer with a remote probe (RadioShack, less
than
| : $20 US, maybe less than $10 US on sale) to measure temperatures in
various
| : locations inside the case, as well as the temperature of the air
leaving the
| : case.
|
| I can do this with the 4 sensors on the drive bay thingie. You still
happy with your non-contact thermometer?
~misfit~ wrote:
>
> Ahh, here it is, seems it may have come from a Dell or Compaq server:
>
> http://www.rexususa.com/fans/21238-1.html
>
> I might try fitting it to the Big Typhoon. :-)
>
> Cheers Paul,
I see on that web page it is rated at 130CFM max, and only draws 0.8A.
Pretty impressive :-)
The problem with heatsink design, is finding a compromise between total
fin area in square inches, versus fin spacing. Scythe, for example, tends
towards the "wide spacing" idea. Fitting a more powerful fan to a Scythe
means that the fan doesn't have to deal with as much "arrestance". Some
of the heatsinks with tighter fin spacing, result in more square inches
of cooling surface, but the fan also has to work harder to push the air
through the fins.
Fans have a "load curve" (I don't know the proper technical term for it),
which shows the flow rate achieved as the path to flow becomes more
resistive to that flow. Some fans (like the fan in your vacuum cleaner)
can continue to push air, even when there is a lot of resistance. But
that comes at the expense of noise.
Still, it should be interesting, to see whether you can squeeze a 10C
reduction from the Typhoon, with a bit more air.
As for the supply of computer goodies, things in Canada aren't a lot better.
A lot of outfits in the States, don't sell to Canada. So, if there are
bargains, it is harder to access them. If I had to go mail order, there
is ncix.com , which is as close to a Newegg as we'll get. Local shops
continue to die out, and just last week, I drove to one, to find the
doors closed. I don't want to live in a place, that only has a
Best Buy, but it may come to that.
Somewhere on teh interweb Howard Goldstein typed:
> On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 10:19:58 -0500, Phil Weldon
> <not.disclosed@example.com> wrote:
>> 'Howard Goldstein' wrote, in part;
>>> That's great advice. None of us should have that much heat in the
>>> box. I'm still trying to find the magic bullet that'll ventilate
>>> this quiet Antec P182 case without whoooshing me away with noise,
>>> but it's not working still >10C over ambient. Must be airflow?
>>>
>>> Any advice on forming baffles to help direct internal airflow?
>>> There's 100CFM actively sucked out and 50CFM actively pushed in.
>> _____
>>
>> Baffles, we don' need no stinking baffles.
I agree. I'm a proponent of the "more power" and intelligent design
philosophies when it comes to case cooling. Go with the thermal syphon, use
it to your advantage and try to have at least slightly more air being pulled
into the case than is being pushed out. Bottom front and top back
respectively. Or just bottom and top, as long as HDD/s are cooled.
Bafles no. However, I do, on occasion use ducts to feed anbient temp air
directly to the CPU cooler* fan.
>> Try reversing the fan functions; have the 100 CFM fan blowing in,
>> the 50 CFM fan blowing out. This will have the added advantage of
>> allowing you to filter all the air since the case will operate at a
>> slightly positive air pressure. This one change may or may not
>> help the inside case ambient temperature, but it will keep dust out.
This would have been exactly my advice. Good job I read other replies
(sometimes) huh? :-)
> I'll try that - thank you. RIght now I have the two at the corner of
> the case near the CPU exhausting. I'll turn the one on the rear and
> the one by the old hot IDE drive up front around but leave the top fan
> exhausting, then try the other permutations to see what works best.
No no no. Put the 100CFM fan in the front bottom pulling air in and the
50CFM one at the back exhausting (along with the PSU fan I take it?). That
way you're not fighting the natural tendancy of hot air rising, you're
working with it. You get two instant benefits, one is positive case
pressure, (if the PSU fan is less than 50CFM) meaning that dust doesn't get
sucked into optical/floppy drives etc. The other (and don't laugh!) is that,
with positive case pressure, you have a slightly higher pressure inside the
case. Higher pressure means more molecules per square foot. As the "air
molecules" are what are removing your heat, this is a good thing. Ok, it's
not as molecule-dense as liquid cooling and it might only be fractionally
better than normal air pressure but every little helps.
*I have to consciously not write "heatsink" these days when refering to the
device that cools the CPU. Absolutely nothing about my 6 heatpipe, passive
phase-change, all copper Tt Mini Typhoon can be classified as a "heatsink".
It is a heat transfer system, and an excellent one at that (as I found out
when I took to the base with an angle grinder while my mate held it by the
fin area, then complained it was too hot to hold after 20 seconds). So I
have to keep reminding myself to call it a "cooler" rather than a "heatsink"
or "HSF".
Actually, thinking about it, the term "heatsink" shouldn't have been used at
all once fans were fitted to the cooling device. Unless you call "sinking"
the heat into air heatsinking.
On Sat, 8 Dec 2007 13:35:52 +1300, ~misfit~ <misfit61nz@yahoot.com.au> wrote:
: Somewhere on teh interweb Howard Goldstein typed:
: > On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 10:19:58 -0500, Phil Weldon
: > <not.disclosed@example.com> wrote:
: >> 'Howard Goldstein' wrote, in part;
: >>> That's great advice. None of us should have that much heat in the
: >>> box. I'm still trying to find the magic bullet that'll ventilate
: >>> this quiet Antec P182 case without whoooshing me away with noise,
: >>> but it's not working still >10C over ambient. Must be airflow?
: >>>
: >>> Any advice on forming baffles to help direct internal airflow?
: >>> There's 100CFM actively sucked out and 50CFM actively pushed in.
: >> _____
: >>
: >> Baffles, we don' need no stinking baffles.
:
: I agree. I'm a proponent of the "more power" and intelligent design
: philosophies when it comes to case cooling. Go with the thermal syphon, use
: it to your advantage and try to have at least slightly more air being pulled
: into the case than is being pushed out. Bottom front and top back
: respectively. Or just bottom and top, as long as HDD/s are cooled.
:
: Bafles no. However, I do, on occasion use ducts to feed anbient temp air
: directly to the CPU cooler* fan.
Ductwork is what I meant to write. You'd commended that to me to try
out, too, I didn't forget. I really really wanna avoid taking a
cutter to the side panel but I'm getting desperate.
:
: >> Try reversing the fan functions; have the 100 CFM fan blowing in,
: >> the 50 CFM fan blowing out. This will have the added advantage of
: >> allowing you to filter all the air since the case will operate at a
: >> slightly positive air pressure. This one change may or may not
: >> help the inside case ambient temperature, but it will keep dust out.
:
: This would have been exactly my advice. Good job I read other replies
: (sometimes) huh? :-)
:
: > I'll try that - thank you. RIght now I have the two at the corner of
: > the case near the CPU exhausting. I'll turn the one on the rear and
: > the one by the old hot IDE drive up front around but leave the top fan
: > exhausting, then try the other permutations to see what works best.
:
: No no no. Put the 100CFM fan in the front bottom pulling air in and the
: 50CFM one at the back exhausting (along with the PSU fan I take it?). That
: way you're not fighting the natural tendancy of hot air rising, you're
: working with it. You get two instant benefits, one is positive case
: pressure, (if the PSU fan is less than 50CFM) meaning that dust doesn't get
: sucked into optical/floppy drives etc. The other (and don't laugh!) is that,
: with positive case pressure, you have a slightly higher pressure inside the
: case. Higher pressure means more molecules per square foot. As the "air
: molecules" are what are removing your heat, this is a good thing. Ok, it's
: not as molecule-dense as liquid cooling and it might only be fractionally
: better than normal air pressure but every little helps.
I accidentally confused things here. It's 100cfm between two 50cfm
fans soon to be turned into suckers like their owner, and one 50
blowing in who I'm going to work very hard to exhaustion. The case
itself has some pretty large vents.
The 50 blowing in has the screen filter that comes with the Antec case
(this is the puppy here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...29025&Tpk=p182
I would not recommend this case except for use in a suit's office, and
then only with the rebate)
We stopped smoking indoors around 20 years ago but the dust is just
incredible anyway, maybe from all the fires. I don't have any other
screening material to use on the newly-minted suckers so I'll have to
steal a pair of Mrs's hose and hope she doesn't notice.
I *will* report back on the difference here.
:
: *I have to consciously not write "heatsink" these days when refering to the
: device that cools the CPU. Absolutely nothing about my 6 heatpipe, passive
: phase-change, all copper Tt Mini Typhoon can be classified as a "heatsink".
: It is a heat transfer system, and an excellent one at that (as I found out
: when I took to the base with an angle grinder while my mate held it by the
: fin area, then complained it was too hot to hold after 20 seconds). So I
: have to keep reminding myself to call it a "cooler" rather than a "heatsink"
: or "HSF".
:
: Actually, thinking about it, the term "heatsink" shouldn't have been used at
: all once fans were fitted to the cooling device. Unless you call "sinking"
: the heat into air heatsinking.
:
: Ok, bye now. :-)
Dude, I'm still having issues thinking in this centigrade scale.
For me "Coolers" instead of "Heatsinks" is too much envelope expansion
to deal with
Oh but I'll throw in a good word for Tt's power supply. The 750w
toughpower with the rebate has been rock solid. A cable mgmnt
nightmare but trouble free.
'Howard Goldstein' wrote, in part:
| I accidentally confused things here. It's 100cfm between two 50cfm
| fans soon to be turned into suckers like their owner, and one 50
| blowing in who I'm going to work very hard to exhaustion. The case
| itself has some pretty large vents.
|
| The 50 blowing in has the screen filter that comes with the Antec case
| (this is the puppy here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...29025&Tpk=p182
| I would not recommend this case except for use in a suit's office, and
| then only with the rebate)
_____
No, no, no. TWO fans blowing IN, ONE blowing OUT (remember the power supply
fan is already blowing out too.) Otherwise no positive pressure, rather a
negative pressure and you can't keep dust out. If your case geometry is
such that you can't put two fans in the case front and one in the rear, then
you really, really DO need to cut a hole in the side panel and install a
slow 120 mm fan.
It is not hard at all to cut a whole in a steel or aluminum side panel. You
can get a 'nibbler' from RadioShack for ~ $10 US. Then all you need to do
is draw a 120 mm diameter circle on the panel, drill a 3/8" hole on the edge
of the circle, insert the nibbler, then slowly chew your way around the
circle. Twenty minutes work to cut the circle. Smooth the edges with a
rattail file. Drill four mounting holes for the fan. Install a filter
frame on the outside of the panel and the fan on the inside. The square
filter frame will completely cover the edge of the circular cut, so any
imperfections will be hidden. Use a long power cable on the fan so that you
can plug it in with the panel open. So, power hand drill, 3.8" bit (for
starter hole), 3/16" bit for screw holes, nibbler, and rattail file. An
hour or so should see you through. You may need an extension 12 v cable for
power.
Phil Weldon
"Howard Goldstein" <hgoldste@mpcs.com> wrote in message
news:1197132315.76736@news.queue.to...
| On Sat, 8 Dec 2007 13:35:52 +1300, ~misfit~ <misfit61nz@yahoot.com.au>
wrote:
| : Somewhere on teh interweb Howard Goldstein typed:
| : > On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 10:19:58 -0500, Phil Weldon
| : > <not.disclosed@example.com> wrote:
| : >> 'Howard Goldstein' wrote, in part;
| : >>> That's great advice. None of us should have that much heat in the
| : >>> box. I'm still trying to find the magic bullet that'll ventilate
| : >>> this quiet Antec P182 case without whoooshing me away with noise,
| : >>> but it's not working still >10C over ambient. Must be airflow?
| : >>>
| : >>> Any advice on forming baffles to help direct internal airflow?
| : >>> There's 100CFM actively sucked out and 50CFM actively pushed in.
| : >> _____
| : >>
| : >> Baffles, we don' need no stinking baffles.
| :
| : I agree. I'm a proponent of the "more power" and intelligent design
| : philosophies when it comes to case cooling. Go with the thermal syphon,
use
| : it to your advantage and try to have at least slightly more air being
pulled
| : into the case than is being pushed out. Bottom front and top back
| : respectively. Or just bottom and top, as long as HDD/s are cooled.
| :
| : Bafles no. However, I do, on occasion use ducts to feed anbient temp
air
| : directly to the CPU cooler* fan.
|
| Ductwork is what I meant to write. You'd commended that to me to try
| out, too, I didn't forget. I really really wanna avoid taking a
| cutter to the side panel but I'm getting desperate.
|
| :
| : >> Try reversing the fan functions; have the 100 CFM fan blowing in,
| : >> the 50 CFM fan blowing out. This will have the added advantage of
| : >> allowing you to filter all the air since the case will operate at a
| : >> slightly positive air pressure. This one change may or may not
| : >> help the inside case ambient temperature, but it will keep dust out.
| :
| : This would have been exactly my advice. Good job I read other replies
| : (sometimes) huh? :-)
| :
| : > I'll try that - thank you. RIght now I have the two at the corner of
| : > the case near the CPU exhausting. I'll turn the one on the rear and
| : > the one by the old hot IDE drive up front around but leave the top fan
| : > exhausting, then try the other permutations to see what works best.
| :
| : No no no. Put the 100CFM fan in the front bottom pulling air in and the
| : 50CFM one at the back exhausting (along with the PSU fan I take it?).
That
| : way you're not fighting the natural tendancy of hot air rising, you're
| : working with it. You get two instant benefits, one is positive case
| : pressure, (if the PSU fan is less than 50CFM) meaning that dust doesn't
get
| : sucked into optical/floppy drives etc. The other (and don't laugh!) is
that,
| : with positive case pressure, you have a slightly higher pressure inside
the
| : case. Higher pressure means more molecules per square foot. As the "air
| : molecules" are what are removing your heat, this is a good thing. Ok,
it's
| : not as molecule-dense as liquid cooling and it might only be
fractionally
| : better than normal air pressure but every little helps.
|
| I accidentally confused things here. It's 100cfm between two 50cfm
| fans soon to be turned into suckers like their owner, and one 50
| blowing in who I'm going to work very hard to exhaustion. The case
| itself has some pretty large vents.
|
| The 50 blowing in has the screen filter that comes with the Antec case
| (this is the puppy here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...29025&Tpk=p182
| I would not recommend this case except for use in a suit's office, and
| then only with the rebate)
|
| We stopped smoking indoors around 20 years ago but the dust is just
| incredible anyway, maybe from all the fires. I don't have any other
| screening material to use on the newly-minted suckers so I'll have to
| steal a pair of Mrs's hose and hope she doesn't notice.
|
| I *will* report back on the difference here.
|
| :
| : *I have to consciously not write "heatsink" these days when refering to
the
| : device that cools the CPU. Absolutely nothing about my 6 heatpipe,
passive
| : phase-change, all copper Tt Mini Typhoon can be classified as a
"heatsink".
| : It is a heat transfer system, and an excellent one at that (as I found
out
| : when I took to the base with an angle grinder while my mate held it by
the
| : fin area, then complained it was too hot to hold after 20 seconds). So
I
| : have to keep reminding myself to call it a "cooler" rather than a
"heatsink"
| : or "HSF".
| :
| : Actually, thinking about it, the term "heatsink" shouldn't have been
used at
| : all once fans were fitted to the cooling device. Unless you call
"sinking"
| : the heat into air heatsinking.
| :
| : Ok, bye now. :-)
|
| Dude, I'm still having issues thinking in this centigrade scale.
| For me "Coolers" instead of "Heatsinks" is too much envelope expansion
| to deal with
|
| Oh but I'll throw in a good word for Tt's power supply. The 750w
| toughpower with the rebate has been rock solid. A cable mgmnt
| nightmare but trouble free.
Re: Q6600 "safe" temps? 
Linear Mode
