I have a Lenovo T60. When I move the cable from the AC adaptor
slightly, the computer makes a "ding dong" sound and the little plug
shaped LED goes on and off. I suppose that means I have to replace
the whole AC adaptor.
Is there an easy, inexpensive, way to repair this cord? Thank you
in advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"
Might not be the adapter, it could be the socket on the machine wants a re-solder so you really need to be sure.... simply try another unit or try the unit on another machine, if you waggle the wire and the plug at the same time you will soon determine if its the socket or the plug end.
The wire sometimes break usually where it goes into the molded end plug so you hold the plug very steady while waggling the wire.
If it should be the plug, then simply getting a computer shop soldering a new plug end will save buying a new power unit.... but do note it's gotta be connected it the right way round or you'll damage mobo.
I would definitely find out first if it is the actual lead and not the power socket, this would save getting 'red faces' when you find out the new adapter is just the same.
The problem is more likely the jack in the laptop than the cord from the
adapter (although it could be either). Sometimes, this is horrendously
expensive to resolve (e.g. new motherboard).
Daniel Prince wrote:
> I have a Lenovo T60. When I move the cable from the AC adaptor
> slightly, the computer makes a "ding dong" sound and the little plug
> shaped LED goes on and off. I suppose that means I have to replace
> the whole AC adaptor.
>
> Is there an easy, inexpensive, way to repair this cord? Thank you
> in advance for all replies.
> --
> Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
> grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
> REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
It's not always just a matter of soldering. QUITE OFTEN, the jacks
themselves fail, and they must be replaced .... they cant be resoldered
(what happens is that a metal conductor INSIDE the jack, usually
connecting the center pin to the pin that is soldered to the
motherboard) physically breaks.
davy wrote:
> Might not be the adapter, it could be the socket on the machine wants a
> re-solder so you really need to be sure.... simply try another unit or
> try the unit on another machine, if you waggle the wire and the plug at
> the same time you will soon determine if its the socket or the plug end.
>
> The wire sometimes break usually where it goes into the molded end plug
> so you hold the plug very steady while waggling the wire.
>
> If it should be the plug, then simply getting a computer shop soldering
> a new plug end will save buying a new power unit.... *but do note it's
> gotta be connected it the right way round or you'll damage mobo*.
>
> I would definitely find out first if it is the actual lead and not the
> power socket, this would save getting 'red faces' when you find out the
> new adapter is just the same.
>
> davy
>
>
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
On 25 Jul, 04:32, Barry Watzman <WatzmanNOS...@neo.rr.com> wrote:
> It's not always just a matter of soldering. *QUITE OFTEN, the jacks
> themselves fail, and they must be replaced .... they cant be resoldered
> (what happens is that a metal conductor INSIDE the jack, usually
> connecting the center pin to the pin that is soldered to the
> motherboard) physically breaks.
>
>
>
>
>
> davy wrote:
> > Might not be the adapter, it could be the socket on the machine wants a
> > re-solder so you really need to be sure.... simply try another unit or
> > try the unit on another machine, if you waggle the wire and the plug at
> > the same time you will soon determine if its the socket or the plug end..
>
> > The wire sometimes break usually where it goes into the molded end plug
> > so you hold the plug very steady while waggling the wire.
>
> > If it should be the plug, then simply getting a computer shop soldering
> > a new plug end will save buying a new power unit.... *but do note *it's
> > gotta *be connected it the right way round or you'll damage mobo*.
>
> > I would definitely find out first if it is the actual lead and not the
> > power socket, this would save getting 'red faces' when you find out the
> > new adapter is just the same.
>
> > davy
>
> ** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Not so, I've just bought a laptop on ebay described as having 'a loose
power connector'. On removing the base cover I found the plastic
housing had cracked allowing the pcb joint on the centre pole to move
back and forth until it sheared. With the plug in situ I resoldered
the joint with the smallest solder tip possible (after taping over
nearby surface mounted components) then I trickled a very tiny amount
of RAPID SET epoxy over the cracked plastic. Once set I built up the
thickness of epoxy using 3 more applications and it is now stronger
than the original. Repair time less than an hour and at virtually no
cost.
---- It takes me more than an hour to simply disassemble/reassemble any of
my laptops to the point of getting to the power jack before I can even
assess the problem, and I have done this about a dozen times on many
different Toshiba models. You must be the world's fastest laptop repair
man or have as many arms as the Hindu god Shiva. I do suspect your solder
repair of the center pole of the power connector will fail eventually if you
continue to use that laptop as a portable device. Solder joints are
subject to cracking under movement & distraction, and the 3+ amps going
through the power jack at max load causes heat to build up, loosening both
solder & epoxy joints over time. "Stronger than the original" isn't
saying much. The "original" is a defect waiting to happen, power jacks of
most laptops are just not designed for frequent re-connections or for the
stress of using laptops as portable devices. An improvement on the
original involves substituting the conventional power jack with something
better engineered to take portable stress, which Lenovo or Apple have done.
The Apple power connector is the best in the business.
---- Epoxy putty is much better than the more liquid forms of epoxy glue,
for repairing small cracked plastic & metal housings of all kinds. It is
extremely thick when mixed and stays where it is applied, no matter what the
position. It is more of a space-filler or structural element than a glue.
Once set, it can be easily drilled or trimmed with a knife or something like
a Dremel tool. Buy it at WalMart, etc.
--- For a comprehensive review of laptop power jack defects & repairs, see http://recliner.spaces.live.com/blog...9CB4!216.entry
"Neil" <group_stuff_etc@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:39ef8de7-516d-4acc-aabd-86f7f6441929@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
On 25 Jul, 04:32, Barry Watzman <WatzmanNOS...@neo.rr.com> wrote:
> It's not always just a matter of soldering. QUITE OFTEN, the jacks
> themselves fail, and they must be replaced .... they cant be resoldered
> (what happens is that a metal conductor INSIDE the jack, usually
> connecting the center pin to the pin that is soldered to the
> motherboard) physically breaks.
>
>
>
>
>
> davy wrote:
> > Might not be the adapter, it could be the socket on the machine wants a
> > re-solder so you really need to be sure.... simply try another unit or
> > try the unit on another machine, if you waggle the wire and the plug at
> > the same time you will soon determine if its the socket or the plug end.
>
> > The wire sometimes break usually where it goes into the molded end plug
> > so you hold the plug very steady while waggling the wire.
>
> > If it should be the plug, then simply getting a computer shop soldering
> > a new plug end will save buying a new power unit.... *but do note it's
> > gotta be connected it the right way round or you'll damage mobo*.
>
> > I would definitely find out first if it is the actual lead and not the
> > power socket, this would save getting 'red faces' when you find out the
> > new adapter is just the same.
>
> > davy
>
> ** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Not so, I've just bought a laptop on ebay described as having 'a loose
power connector'. On removing the base cover I found the plastic
housing had cracked allowing the pcb joint on the centre pole to move
back and forth until it sheared. With the plug in situ I resoldered
the joint with the smallest solder tip possible (after taping over
nearby surface mounted components) then I trickled a very tiny amount
of RAPID SET epoxy over the cracked plastic. Once set I built up the
thickness of epoxy using 3 more applications and it is now stronger
than the original. Repair time less than an hour and at virtually no
cost.
In news:hj1lk.32247$co7.18580@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com,
A Dembinski typed:
> ---- It takes me more than an hour to simply disassemble/reassemble
> any of my laptops to the point of getting to the power jack before I
> can even assess the problem, and I have done this about a dozen times
> on many different Toshiba models. You must be the world's fastest
> laptop repair man or have as many arms as the Hindu god Shiva. I
> do suspect your solder repair of the center pole of the power
> connector will fail eventually if you continue to use that laptop as
> a portable device. Solder joints are subject to cracking under
> movement & distraction, and the 3+ amps going through the power jack
> at max load causes heat to build up, loosening both solder & epoxy
> joints over time. "Stronger than the original" isn't saying
> much. The "original" is a defect waiting to happen, power jacks of
> most laptops are just not designed for frequent re-connections or for
> the stress of using laptops as portable devices. An improvement on
> the original involves substituting the conventional power jack with
> something better engineered to take portable stress, which Lenovo or
> Apple have done. The Apple power connector is the best in the
> business. ---- Epoxy putty is much better than the more liquid forms
> of epoxy glue, for repairing small cracked plastic & metal housings
> of all kinds. It is extremely thick when mixed and stays where it is
> applied, no matter what the position. It is more of a space-filler
> or structural element than a glue. Once set, it can be easily drilled
> or trimmed with a knife or something like a Dremel tool. Buy it at
> WalMart, etc. --- For a comprehensive review of laptop power jack
> defects & repairs, see
> http://recliner.spaces.live.com/blog...9CB4!216.entry
I have been buying laptops since 1984 with the Epson PX-8. And I have to
admit that the 80's and 90's the jack was more solid as it has added support
from the outside of the case. Today they are solely supported by the
motherboard alone. Not as good I know. But don't bang it, don't twist it, or
do anything else... every single jack I know will last much longer than you
will when treated correctly. I have never had a single jack fail on me yet.
Although I have bought used laptops that the jack was abused. So I don't
have a lot of sympathy for those who had a jack that has failed.
--
Bill
Gateway Celeron M 370 (1.5GHZ)
MX6124 (laptop) w/2GB
Windows XP Home SP2 (120GB HD)
Intel(r) 910GML (64MB shared)
On 3 Aug, 03:26, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
> Innews:hj1lk.32247$co7.18580@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com,
> A Dembinski typed:
>
>
>
>
>
> > ---- *It takes me more than an hour to simply disassemble/reassemble
> > any of my laptops to the point of getting to the power jack before I
> > can even assess the problem, and I have done this about a dozen times
> > on many different Toshiba models. * You must be the world's fastest
> > laptop repair man or have as many arms as the Hindu god Shiva. * *I
> > do suspect your solder repair of the center pole of the power
> > connector will fail eventually if you continue to use that laptop as
> > a portable device. * *Solder joints are subject to cracking under
> > movement & distraction, and the 3+ amps going through the power jack
> > at max load causes heat to build up, loosening both solder & epoxy
> > joints over time. * * *"Stronger than the original" isn't saying
> > much. * The "original" is a defect waiting to happen, power jacks of
> > most laptops are just not designed for frequent re-connections or for
> > the stress of using laptops as portable devices. * An improvement on
> > the original involves substituting the conventional power jack with
> > something better engineered to take portable stress, which Lenovo or
> > Apple have done. The Apple power connector is the best in the
> > business. ---- *Epoxy putty is much better than the more liquid forms
> > of epoxy glue, for repairing small cracked plastic & metal housings
> > of all kinds. *It is extremely thick when mixed and stays where it is
> > applied, no matter what the position. *It is more of a space-filler
> > or structural element than a glue. Once set, it can be easily drilled
> > or trimmed with a knife or something like a Dremel tool. *Buy it at
> > WalMart, etc. --- * For a comprehensive review of laptop power jack
> > defects & repairs, see
> >http://recliner.spaces.live.com/blog...9CB4!216.entry
>
> I have been buying laptops since 1984 with the Epson PX-8. And I have to
> admit that the 80's and 90's the jack was more solid as it has added support
> from the outside of the case. Today they are solely supported by the
> motherboard alone. Not as good I know. But don't bang it, don't twist it, or
> do anything else... every single jack I know will last much longer than you
> will when treated correctly. I have never had a single jack fail on me yet.
> Although I have bought used laptops that the jack was abused. So I don't
> have a lot of sympathy for those who had a jack that has failed.
>
> --
> Bill
> Gateway Celeron M 370 (1.5GHZ)
> MX6124 (laptop) w/2GB
> Windows XP Home SP2 (120GB HD)
> Intel(r) 910GML (64MB shared)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
It's a P/Bell Notebook E series I bought off eBay for a couple of
tasks for my work. The socket is under the internal battery cover.
Soldering was tricky as the snapped joint was barely proud of the MB.
The epoxy was applied with a toothpick so I could get it in the nooks
& cranies - taking care not to apply too much and let it run into the
socket (plug in situ to ensure correct alignmant of the centre pole).
There were a couple of generous gaps between the socket o/dia and the
socket MB housing into which went a reasonable amount of epoxy. By
supporting the laptop at various angles the flow and position could be
controlled before it set (now 5 applications). I agree the original
design is poor, but the amount of epoxy holding it together now and
the feel of the repair I suspect it'll last a good while yet. The
seller left the original receipts in the bag, one shows the MB had
been replaced due to this fault before. If it goes **** up again I'll
solder a flying lead and make the connection externally.
AC adptor problem 
Linear Mode
