Replacement power switch

The power-on switch in my In-Win case has failed. I thought that it would
be a trivial thing to locate a replacement switch, but I've had absolutely
no luck. Can anyone point me to a source? I don't want to get rid of my
case: (A) I like my full-tower and (B) doing so simply because the power
switch is out seems insane.

Thanks,
Alan

Alan Andrews wrote:
> The power-on switch in my In-Win case has failed. I thought that it would
> be a trivial thing to locate a replacement switch, but I've had absolutely
> no luck. Can anyone point me to a source? I don't want to get rid of my
> case: (A) I like my full-tower and (B) doing so simply because the power
> switch is out seems insane.
>
> Thanks,
> Alan
>
>

RadioShack switches:

http://www.radioshack.com/family/ind...032058.2032230

Momentary pushbutton - solder the "NO" (normally open) and "COM" terminals
to the wires on the Inwin harness. Remove the Inwin switch, and connect two
of three pins of one of these:

Mini SPDT 3-Amp Momentary Pushbutton Switch
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062541

These, by comparison, are pure misery and do not buy. Spring force is
too high. I've tried these and don't like them. The 2062541 above, at least,
looks to be based on microswitch technology. Not quite as cheesy.

Mini SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch (four per pack) - normally open, two terminal
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062539

So what you want, is a normally open, momentary contact switch. Switches
with three terminals, have a "NO" (normally open), a "NC" (normally closed)
and a "COM" terminal, so with the three contacts, you can either make
a normally open or a normally closed switch. You'd use "NO" and "COM" to
make a normally open momentary contact, to switch on a computer.

The ampere rating is not important, because the current involved for the
computer switch, is 0.001 amps. None of these switches, not even a reed
switch, would be bothered by the current flow.

To install the switch, you have a couple options. If you are lucky, the
switch hardware just fits the hole. Or, you can drill a fresh hole, of
the correct diameter, and leave the old switch in place, so no gaping
holes are left. Note that, if you want to drill a computer case, remove
*all* the hardware first. Drill the hole, vacuum thoroughly when you are
done. No sense having a motherboard short out, when some aluminum or steel
flakes, fall into some IC pins.

Paul

Thanks much.

Actually, I'd like to replace the switch with a rectangular rocker-type
switch, but this helped lots. Thanks again.

"Paul" <nospam@needed.com> wrote in message news:evv08p$qvl$1@aioe.org...
> Alan Andrews wrote:
>> The power-on switch in my In-Win case has failed. I thought that it
>> would be a trivial thing to locate a replacement switch, but I've had
>> absolutely no luck. Can anyone point me to a source? I don't want to
>> get rid of my case: (A) I like my full-tower and (B) doing so simply
>> because the power switch is out seems insane.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Alan
>
> RadioShack switches:
>
> http://www.radioshack.com/family/ind...032058.2032230
>
> Momentary pushbutton - solder the "NO" (normally open) and "COM" terminals
> to the wires on the Inwin harness. Remove the Inwin switch, and connect
> two
> of three pins of one of these:
>
> Mini SPDT 3-Amp Momentary Pushbutton Switch
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062541
>
> These, by comparison, are pure misery and do not buy. Spring force is
> too high. I've tried these and don't like them. The 2062541 above, at
> least,
> looks to be based on microswitch technology. Not quite as cheesy.
>
> Mini SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch (four per pack) - normally open, two
> terminal
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062539
>
> So what you want, is a normally open, momentary contact switch. Switches
> with three terminals, have a "NO" (normally open), a "NC" (normally
> closed)
> and a "COM" terminal, so with the three contacts, you can either make
> a normally open or a normally closed switch. You'd use "NO" and "COM" to
> make a normally open momentary contact, to switch on a computer.
>
> The ampere rating is not important, because the current involved for the
> computer switch, is 0.001 amps. None of these switches, not even a reed
> switch, would be bothered by the current flow.
>
> To install the switch, you have a couple options. If you are lucky, the
> switch hardware just fits the hole. Or, you can drill a fresh hole, of
> the correct diameter, and leave the old switch in place, so no gaping
> holes are left. Note that, if you want to drill a computer case, remove
> *all* the hardware first. Drill the hole, vacuum thoroughly when you are
> done. No sense having a motherboard short out, when some aluminum or steel
> flakes, fall into some IC pins.
>
> Paul