i'm running windows xp sp2 on a dell inspiron 6400 laptop, and use a
logitech usb optical mouse (an older model; think I bought it like 5 years
ago -- was one of the first optical mice).
every once in a while, the mouse connection is lost. the little light on the
mouse goes out, and the mouse is non-functional. I pull the mouse plug out
of the usb socket and reinsert it, and windows see the mouse again.
at first I thought it was a problem with a particular usb port, since it
seemed to happen mostly with that one port. but lately i've been using it in
a different usb port (the laptop has 4), one which I've hardly ever used in
the 1 1/2 years I've had the laptop. So it's doubtful this other usb port is
damaged in any way. and yet the same thing happens in this other port.
the first thing that came to my mind was that I tugged on the mouse cord and
it caused the usb plug to move in the socket, so that windows lost the
connection. but when it's happened the past few times, i've checked the
mouse cord, and there is lots of slack. so it's not possible that the cord
tugged on the plug.
so what could this be? Is this a motherboard issue, related to the usb
ports? or a windows issue, where some drivers need to be reinstalled? or do
I just need to get a new mouse?
> so what could this be? Is this a motherboard issue, related to the usb
> ports? or a windows issue, where some drivers need to be reinstalled? or do
> I just need to get a new mouse?
Yeah get a new mouse they don't cost the world you know, one
cause I could think of is that the cable at the *mouse*
itself might be broken, not on the plug at the back. Hold
the mouse down and wiggle the cable coming out of it, maybe
its there. But I wouldn't spend much time with it, unless of
course you can handle a soldering-iron.
If this is a motherboard issue, then you could read trough
the manual if there is some jumper to set, but if this
happen to be on and off, I'd suspect the mouse.
>
> any help or assistance is appreciated. Thanks!
>
> neil
>
>
Dragomir Kollaric
--
This signature is licensed under the GPL and may be
freely distributed as long as a copy of the GPL is included... :-)
"Dragomir Kollaric" <Dragomir@DK.org.invalid> wrote in message
news:20080817153233.751@DK-Slivowitz.org.invalid...
> On 2008-08-17, Neil hit the keyboard and wrote:
>
> <cut>
>
>> so what could this be? Is this a motherboard issue, related to the usb
>> ports? or a windows issue, where some drivers need to be reinstalled? or
>> do
>> I just need to get a new mouse?
>
> Yeah get a new mouse they don't cost the world you know, one
> cause I could think of is that the cable at the *mouse*
> itself might be broken, not on the plug at the back. Hold
> the mouse down and wiggle the cable coming out of it, maybe
> its there. But I wouldn't spend much time with it, unless of
> course you can handle a soldering-iron.
>
> If this is a motherboard issue, then you could read trough
> the manual if there is some jumper to set, but if this
> happen to be on and off, I'd suspect the mouse.
OK, that's good to know. I wiggled the cable coming out of the mouse, and
the mouse went on and off. But it came back on when the cable was left
alone, which is different than what I was experiencing, which is that it
stayed off. Nevertheless, I'll try a new mouse. thanks!
On Aug 17, 5:20*pm, "Neil" <nos...@nospam.net> wrote:
> "Dragomir Kollaric" <Drago...@DK.org.invalid> wrote in message
>
> news:20080817153233.751@DK-Slivowitz.org.invalid...
>
>
>
> > On 2008-08-17, Neil *hit the keyboard and wrote:
>
> > <cut>
>
> >> so what could this be? Is this a motherboard issue, related to the usb
> >> ports? or a windows issue, where some drivers need to be reinstalled? or
> >> do
> >> I just need to get a new mouse?
>
> > Yeah get a new mouse they don't cost the world you know, one
> > cause I *could think *of is *that the *cable at *the *mouse*
> > itself might *be broken, not on *the plug at the *back. Hold
> > the mouse down and wiggle the *cable coming out of it, maybe
> > its there. But I wouldn't spend much time with it, unless of
> > course you can handle a soldering-iron.
>
> > If this is *a motherboard issue, then you *could read trough
> > the *manual if *there is *some jumper *to set, *but if *this
> > happen to be on and off, I'd suspect the mouse.
>
> OK, that's good to know. I wiggled the cable coming out of the mouse, and
> the mouse went on and off. But it came back on when the cable was left
> alone, which is different than what I was experiencing, which is that it
> stayed off. Nevertheless, I'll try a new mouse. thanks!
The wiggle test confirms that there is a problem within the cable.
There might be a "broken" wire which went left alone the gap is
closed. When it is move, the gap opens and the signals do not get
between the mouse / PC.
"The wiggle test confirms that there is a problem within the cable.
There might be a "broken" wire which went left alone the gap is
closed. When it is move, the gap opens and the signals do not get
between the mouse / PC."
yeah, i had it happen again last night, with the mouse turning off. I
adjusted the wire, and the mouse came back on. so that confirms it.
gosh i don't even know how long i've had this mouse. 5 years? 10 years? i
lose track of time. it was one of the first optical mice that logitech
produced, so it's pretty old.
my favorite thing about the mouse is that it has a 4th button the side,
where your thumb sits, which I use to go back in a web browser or windows
explorer. i'm so used to going back by just clicking with my thumb. i don't
think i can live without that. :-)
Neil wrote:
> "The wiggle test confirms that there is a problem within the cable.
> There might be a "broken" wire which went left alone the gap is
> closed. When it is move, the gap opens and the signals do not get
> between the mouse / PC."
>
> yeah, i had it happen again last night, with the mouse turning off. I
> adjusted the wire, and the mouse came back on. so that confirms it.
>
> gosh i don't even know how long i've had this mouse. 5 years? 10 years? i
> lose track of time. it was one of the first optical mice that logitech
> produced, so it's pretty old.
>
> my favorite thing about the mouse is that it has a 4th button the side,
> where your thumb sits, which I use to go back in a web browser or windows
> explorer. i'm so used to going back by just clicking with my thumb. i don't
> think i can live without that. :-)
Someone who is handy with a soldering iron can fix this for you.
Typically, on electronics with a bad cable, you cut off the part
that has the break in it. And then pull some of the wire that
was outside the device, inside. And remake the connections by
stripping the wire and soldering the wire to the printed circuit
board. It means the cable ends up a bit shorter, but doesn't require
ordering any parts or anything.
Stripping wire requires some practice, and requires the right tools.
The wire stripper they offer at the hardware store, may not be
considered a "good" stripper, and people who do this stuff
regularly, will have tested a number of tools until they find
one they like.
I've maintained some old mice that way, even soldering replacement
microswitches or swapping housings between identical mice (some
plastic parts wear from all the button pushing). If you like a mouse
enough, there is no reason to part with it - at least until something
important breaks, like the optical sensor.
You could try asking at a TV repair, to see what they'd charge, if
you're not comfortable with soldering it yourself. Depending on the
mood they're in, maybe they'll give you a good deal on the repair
(like a labor charge for just the time involved). Part of the fun,
is finding the screws on the bottom of the mouse (one will be
hidden under a stick, and others could be up above the feet).
Some may only use one screw, and rely on a hinge structure to hold
the other end together. Usually, the sticker gets damaged when doing
the repair, but that isn't a big deal.
On Mon, 18 Aug 2008 18:47:50 -0400, Paul <nospam@needed.com>
wrote:
>Someone who is handy with a soldering iron can fix this for you.
>
>Typically, on electronics with a bad cable, you cut off the part
>that has the break in it. And then pull some of the wire that
>was outside the device, inside. And remake the connections by
>stripping the wire and soldering the wire to the printed circuit
>board. It means the cable ends up a bit shorter, but doesn't require
>ordering any parts or anything.
>
>Stripping wire requires some practice, and requires the right tools.
>The wire stripper they offer at the hardware store, may not be
>considered a "good" stripper, and people who do this stuff
>regularly, will have tested a number of tools until they find
>one they like.
The wire is pretty fine gauge, I usually just lay something
like that down on the edge of a piece of wood and rotate it
by pulling an x-acto knife blade over it.
>
>I've maintained some old mice that way, even soldering replacement
>microswitches or swapping housings between identical mice (some
>plastic parts wear from all the button pushing). If you like a mouse
>enough, there is no reason to part with it - at least until something
>important breaks, like the optical sensor.
>
>You could try asking at a TV repair, to see what they'd charge, if
>you're not comfortable with soldering it yourself. Depending on the
>mood they're in, maybe they'll give you a good deal on the repair
>(like a labor charge for just the time involved). Part of the fun,
>is finding the screws on the bottom of the mouse (one will be
>hidden under a stick, and others could be up above the feet).
>Some may only use one screw, and rely on a hinge structure to hold
>the other end together. Usually, the sticker gets damaged when doing
>the repair, but that isn't a big deal.
>
> Paul
I doubt it'd be very cost effective to get this done at a TV
repair shop, considering it was probably a $15 mouse back in
the day and now with some wear... the left microswitch
probably doesn't have much life left in it either.
There's probably something modern that would have a close
enough shape and a side button programmable to do the same
action. Another option might be to get another cheap mouse
and swap the cable from it to the old one, avoiding having
to strip and solder wires because sometimes they use a
somewhat standard pin header socket and mating connector.
The OP will have to open up the mouse to see if it's like
that or the wires are soldered direct to the PCB.
It might still not be worth the time though, a cable here
and a microswitch there... adds up to more than the value of
the mouse, plus modern optical mice are so much more precise
than the early ones where.
"Paul" <nospam@needed.com> wrote in message news:g8ctvs$gn2$1@aioe.org...
> Neil wrote:
>> "The wiggle test confirms that there is a problem within the cable.
>> There might be a "broken" wire which went left alone the gap is
>> closed. When it is move, the gap opens and the signals do not get
>> between the mouse / PC."
>>
>> yeah, i had it happen again last night, with the mouse turning off. I
>> adjusted the wire, and the mouse came back on. so that confirms it.
>>
>> gosh i don't even know how long i've had this mouse. 5 years? 10 years? i
>> lose track of time. it was one of the first optical mice that logitech
>> produced, so it's pretty old.
>>
>> my favorite thing about the mouse is that it has a 4th button the side,
>> where your thumb sits, which I use to go back in a web browser or windows
>> explorer. i'm so used to going back by just clicking with my thumb. i
>> don't think i can live without that. :-)
>
> Someone who is handy with a soldering iron can fix this for you.
>
> Typically, on electronics with a bad cable, you cut off the part
> that has the break in it. And then pull some of the wire that
> was outside the device, inside. And remake the connections by
> stripping the wire and soldering the wire to the printed circuit
> board. It means the cable ends up a bit shorter, but doesn't require
> ordering any parts or anything.
>
> Stripping wire requires some practice, and requires the right tools.
> The wire stripper they offer at the hardware store, may not be
> considered a "good" stripper, and people who do this stuff
> regularly, will have tested a number of tools until they find
> one they like.
>
> I've maintained some old mice that way, even soldering replacement
> microswitches or swapping housings between identical mice (some
> plastic parts wear from all the button pushing). If you like a mouse
> enough, there is no reason to part with it - at least until something
> important breaks, like the optical sensor.
>
> You could try asking at a TV repair, to see what they'd charge, if
> you're not comfortable with soldering it yourself. Depending on the
> mood they're in, maybe they'll give you a good deal on the repair
> (like a labor charge for just the time involved). Part of the fun,
> is finding the screws on the bottom of the mouse (one will be
> hidden under a stick, and others could be up above the feet).
> Some may only use one screw, and rely on a hinge structure to hold
> the other end together. Usually, the sticker gets damaged when doing
> the repair, but that isn't a big deal.
>
> Paul
I might try that. I usually just replace electronics. There must be some
around with that 4th button still. But this might be a fun project anyway.
Thanks!
> considering it was probably a $15 mouse back in
> the day
I think you missed the part where I said it was one of the first optical
mice... :-) Try $50! Yes, I know, I'm ashamed. But that's how much they cost
when they first came out, when they were "cutting edge technology." They
came down soon after that.
But even today, the basic Microsoft optical mouse (which I acutally like
better than my mouse, in terms of "feel"; but it doesn't have the 4th
button) cost $20.
But, in any case, I see your point.
> It might still not be worth the time though, a cable here
> and a microswitch there... adds up to more than the value of
> the mouse, plus modern optical mice are so much more precise
> than the early ones where.
Yeah, it would have to be for the fun of it mostly. :-)
Neil wrote:
>> considering it was probably a $15 mouse back in
>> the day
>
> I think you missed the part where I said it was one of the first optical
> mice... :-) Try $50! Yes, I know, I'm ashamed. But that's how much they cost
> when they first came out, when they were "cutting edge technology." They
> came down soon after that.
>
> But even today, the basic Microsoft optical mouse (which I acutally like
> better than my mouse, in terms of "feel"; but it doesn't have the 4th
> button) cost $20.
>
> But, in any case, I see your point.
>
>> It might still not be worth the time though, a cable here
>> and a microswitch there... adds up to more than the value of
>> the mouse, plus modern optical mice are so much more precise
>> than the early ones where.
>
> Yeah, it would have to be for the fun of it mostly. :-)
>
In my case, I carefully maintained the item, because it was
relatively obscure. A plain three button mouse for X-windows,
with no scroll wheel or the like. Now that I'm not using
X-windows any more, this is a non-issue. I used the mouse
enough, to have worn down the plastic inside, for the left
mouse button (which is why I had to swap mechanical bits at
one point).
In your case, depending on how attached you are to the fourth
button, may determine what you do next. If you can find something
with the same configuration, then by all means buy a new one.
It is the cases where you want to keep things the same, where
you'll spend the time to fix it.
I guess I get a little disappointed, when I drop into Staples,
and all the mice look the same. If I want something a generation
older, I'll likely not find a match for it.
usb mouse loses its connection 
Linear Mode
