Hey I have a PC with CPU i am not sure of it is a Asus CUV4X with
128MB of RAM. Upon Boot it usually shuts down after the initial BIOS
boot process. When i get it to restart (big hassle) it goes directly
to bios with the error the CPU setting was invalid I have tried all
three available settings (minus manual) 333/550/766. And have the same
problem with all three. What next step shouldi proceed too take out
the chip and ID? or would it be one of the presets for sure?
proph3t wrote:
> Hey I have a PC with CPU i am not sure of it is a Asus CUV4X with
> 128MB of RAM. Upon Boot it usually shuts down after the initial BIOS
> boot process. When i get it to restart (big hassle) it goes directly
> to bios with the error the CPU setting was invalid I have tried all
> three available settings (minus manual) 333/550/766. And have the same
> problem with all three. What next step shouldi proceed too take out
> the chip and ID? or would it be one of the presets for sure?
It makes sense to definitively determine what processor you have. Also,
I would probably put a new CMOS battery in.
proph3t wrote:
> Hey I have a PC with CPU i am not sure of it is a Asus CUV4X with
> 128MB of RAM. Upon Boot it usually shuts down after the initial BIOS
> boot process. When i get it to restart (big hassle) it goes directly
> to bios with the error the CPU setting was invalid I have tried all
> three available settings (minus manual) 333/550/766. And have the same
> problem with all three. What next step shouldi proceed too take out
> the chip and ID? or would it be one of the presets for sure?
>
> All help appreciated
What could be happening, is the processor is overheating, because
the setting is too high, and the processor switches off the
system via THERMTRIP.
Remove the heatsink. Read the part number or other details off
the top. You can look up the processor here. You can use the SLxxx
part number in the search box.
You could use jumper settings, rather than going jumper
free. That would require changing the JEN jumper (so the
motherboard knows the DIP switches are being used). The
multiplier switches likely don't do anything (because
most of those processors will be locked). You can set the
multiplier, according to the details of the processor,
but it shouldn't really interfere with anything if it
was wrong for example.
There are also some jumpers for frequency, and the canonical
choices are 66/33, 100/33, 133/33, where the second number
is the PCI bus frequency. The first number feeds the CPU.
So if you had a 550MHz processor, it might be 5.5 x 100, so
you'd use 100/33 and the multiplier switches to 5.5.
The purpose of using the jumpers, is to take control
of your destiny. And basically verify the thing is
tripping out on an overheat.
If it still trips out in the same way, then you might
suspect the power supply has gone bad, and you're hitting
a power peak at the instant it shuts off. If installing
a substitute supply, it may require a supply with -5V on
the output. So check the current supply, to see if there is a
pin 18 wire and pin present. Modern 20 pin supplies have
removed pin 18 ("-5V"). If the pin was missing, and the
system had been running fine, you'd know -5V was not needed.
Otherwise, you might not know for sure whether it needs it or
not. Computers were supposed to stop using -5V years ago,
but that doesn't mean that there aren't designers who
broke the rules. It would have been a touch of class, if
motherboards not using -5V, had pin 18 missing on the
motherboard side of the equation.
( Pin 18 uses a white colored wire, if present. See page 27.
This old spec, is from when supplies still had -5V. )
When you fit the heatsink back on the processor, you'll need
some fresh thermal interface material. For example, you
could apply some AS Ceramique to aid heat conduction.
There is also a cleaner you can get, or someone else suggested
something like Goo Gone. Try not to get paste on surfaces
other than the ones that will be conducting the heat. On
the processors with the small contact area, it is more
important to apply a thin layer of paste, to maximize the
heat transfer.
We haven't discusses the CPU Vcore yet. The BIOS can apparently
override the default voltage. The processorfinder.intel.com
web page may or may not show you the proper Vcore. If the BIOS
has a "Default" setting, you could try that, then the next time
the BIOS starts, look in the Hardware Monitor BIOS page and
read out the measured value. That will tell you roughly what
is going on. For example, if the default (signaled by the VID
pins on the bottom of the processor, feeding the Vcore regulator
chip) is 1.65V, then you might see 1.71V at idle in the hardware
monitor. Asus regulators usually overvolt 50-60mV above the
specified value at idle. When the processor is running a 100%
computing load, the voltage should drop in response.
As an example of a situation to avoid, a Tualatin processor (likely
comes after the CUV4X shipped) is installed, its default is 1.5V.
If you run one of those at 1.8V, it dies after three weeks to
one month. Other processor families may have a different degree
of tolerance to a too-high value.
It could be as well, that the CMOS battery is bad. (It is an
old motherboard, after all.) You can measure that, without disassembling
anything. Using a multimeter set to the volts ranges, connect the
black lead to a screw on the back of the computer (use an alligator
clip on one of the I/O connector screws). That is so you don't
accidentally short something inside the computer. Then, using the
red lead, plugged into the "volt holes" on the meter, you can touch
the top surface of the CR2032 coin cell. It has a big (+) on it.
You should get 3.0V if the battery is good. Replace the battery if it is
2.4V or lower. The battery is only used, when the supply is
completely off (switched off at the back). it holds the
BIOS settings, and allows the RTC to keep proper clock time.
It fades fairly quickly, so once it drops below 3.0V, is
likely won't last much longer.
The CMOS battery might last 10 years, if the power supply was
never switched off at the back, at night. It would last about
3 years, if the computer is switched off at the back, or is
switched off at a power strip. That would give you some idea
how often it would need to be replaced. But measuring it is
easy, as you can do that without removing the battery from
its socket.
Grinder wrote:
> proph3t wrote:
>> Hey I have a PC with CPU i am not sure of it is a Asus CUV4X with
>> 128MB of RAM. Upon Boot it usually shuts down after the initial BIOS
>> boot process. When i get it to restart (big hassle) it goes directly
>> to bios with the error the CPU setting was invalid I have tried all
>> three available settings (minus manual) 333/550/766. And have the same
>> problem with all three. What next step shouldi proceed too take out
>> the chip and ID? or would it be one of the presets for sure?
>
> It makes sense to definitively determine what processor you have. Also,
> I would probably put a new CMOS battery in.
Yes...that's what it looks like to me...
I'd put in a new cmos battery...then set the bios to default
On Tue, 20 Oct 2009 19:56:56 -0700 (PDT), proph3t
<craigoscott@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Hey I have a PC with CPU i am not sure of it is a Asus CUV4X with
>128MB of RAM. Upon Boot it usually shuts down after the initial BIOS
>boot process. When i get it to restart (big hassle) it goes directly
>to bios with the error the CPU setting was invalid I have tried all
>three available settings (minus manual) 333/550/766. And have the same
>problem with all three. What next step shouldi proceed too take out
>the chip and ID? or would it be one of the presets for sure?
>
>All help appreciated
Since it is an old system the first thing to do is open it
up, clean out dust and determine if all fans, including on
video card if present, and in PSU, are spinning at power-on.
If any are not, immediately turn off system and replace that
failed fan.
While in the system, inspect the motherboard for failed
capacitors (domed tops, swollen, leaking residue), and
either swap in a new battery or verify that the current
battery isn't excessively drained as measured by a
multimeter.
If everything looks ok so far, suspect the power supply is
failing.
As for which speed to choose, it doesn't really matter since
it fails on all of them. The settings appear to be rounded
off CPU speeds based on which FSB speed you pick, so all
else being equal the lower the speed the more likely it
should work, then later when the system is running again you
can identify the CPU by running CPU-Z or similar software
which will tell you the CPU model, and then with that info
you can web search for what FSB speed and multiplier it uses
if you don't know already.
IF you have some spare heatsink grease lying around, then I
would go ahead and take the heatsink off, clean off the old
thermal compound or material, and apply fresh heatsink
grease. Reason being, if it is an open flipchip or very
poor quality thermal compond then it may have degraded
(dried out from the liquids separating out over time and
thermal cycles) and may need replaced by now.
If you don't have spare heatsink grease to reapply, don't
take the heatsink off yet as you will probably need some to
reattach it.
Hey thanks for all your responses I have just returned home so I will
try all your suggestions starting with the CMOS battery.. I placed a
call apparently CMOS batteries are not standard so ill have to bring
it in to be sure it is an identical model.
Anyways I shall get back to you thanks so much again
proph3t wrote:
> Hey thanks for all your responses I have just returned home so I will
> try all your suggestions starting with the CMOS battery.. I placed a
> call apparently CMOS batteries are not standard so ill have to bring
> it in to be sure it is an identical model.
>
> Anyways I shall get back to you thanks so much again
>
> proph3t
Manual says it is a CR2032. All the PCs I have in the house use
the same CMOS battery part number. So it is a common one, and
one you can find at just about any place that sells batteries.
Radio Shack would have it. Even the place I get watch batteries
had some.
On Tue, 27 Oct 2009 22:48:13 -0400, Paul <nospam@needed.com>
wrote:
>proph3t wrote:
>> Hey thanks for all your responses I have just returned home so I will
>> try all your suggestions starting with the CMOS battery.. I placed a
>> call apparently CMOS batteries are not standard so ill have to bring
>> it in to be sure it is an identical model.
>>
>> Anyways I shall get back to you thanks so much again
>>
>> proph3t
>
>Manual says it is a CR2032. All the PCs I have in the house use
>the same CMOS battery part number. So it is a common one, and
>one you can find at just about any place that sells batteries.
>Radio Shack would have it. Even the place I get watch batteries
>had some.
>
> Paul
Depends on how much of a hurry you're in, lots of places
local to me want $3-4 for a mere watch battery while they
can be found online for about $1 each in quantity:1, less in
volume then add a couple dollars shipping so it depends on
how many batteries you need (I keep a list of all
watch/calculator/etc batteries so I can order 'em all at
once).
On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 04:00:43 -0500, edfair
<edfair.40tex7@no.email.invalid> wrote:
>
>Also found at grocery stores and drug stores, just don't fall for the
>medical device versions, they cost too much.
>
>You can also use the 2025 or 2016 if the 2032 is out of stock, they
>just don't last as long.
>
.... just checked ebay, you can get about 20 of them for $5
delivered, or one for $1.50 delivered +- 50 cents.
Help With Old PC please for friends father 
Linear Mode
