Fluorescent light for studio portraiture

I am considering setting up a small studio for portraiture using a
digital camera. If I used fluorescent lighting, what would be a good
set-up?
Would I get away with just one large light source?
What total wattage would you recommend?
What make would you recommend (UK)?
--
Chris

I posted recently about fluorescent lights, so maybe worth a read (although
there are a couple of people with a personal dispute with each other, trying
to show who's got the biggest knob).

I am still undecided what light sources to use, as all light sources have
their pro's and cons.

For flash photography, Alien bees don't appear to be generally available in
the UK, so Elinchrom and Bowens seem to be the way to go.

For tungsten, Lowel don't appear to be generally available in the UK. So,
Arri maybe??? I don't know.

For florescent, I don't really know what to make of it yet.

For strobists, there are of course people producing pretty decent photos,
although it's maybe not a cheaper option IMO, just a way to get some light
out in the field with versatile lighting.
http://bertstephani.com/blog/?cat=6

At the moment, for me, I hate shooting restricted by shutter speeds with a
passion, so am undecided.




"Chris" <nospam@[127.0.0.1]> wrote in message
news:ZGzdhGH$sWbHFwcB@[127.0.0.1]...
>I am considering setting up a small studio for portraiture using a digital
>camera. If I used fluorescent lighting, what would be a good set-up?
> Would I get away with just one large light source?
> What total wattage would you recommend?
> What make would you recommend (UK)?
> --
> Chris

On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 19:53:35 +0000, Chris wrote:

> I am considering setting up a small studio for portraiture using a

Do you know anything about studio portrait lighting or any artificial
lighting techniques? If not, there are three categories of lighting you
should be familiar with, first: Natural Light, that is NO artificial
lights, just the sun and skylight; Classic or Traditional; and Glamour
and Theatrical. So, before making any lighting purchases, become
familiar with what type of lighting you'll be using the most.

> digital camera. If I used fluorescent lighting, what would be a good
> set-up?

You mean a manufacturer? Doesn't really matter. If you mean, number of
lights, size of reflectors, etc., I suggest that you start simple:
medium softbox, at least 3x4 feet, and a few flat reflectors of various
sizes and reflectivities, that is, matte white to shiny silver. As you
gain experience, add additional lights to suit your needs.

FYI: In my 30 year career as a commercial photographer, for most any type
of portrait I was contracted to do, I hardly ever used more than 3 lights
and a large reflector. Most of the time, less. KISS.

> Would I get away with just one large light source?

Sure.

> What total wattage would you recommend?

For fluorescents? Well, the first fluorescent softbox, I built many
years ago, had 5 or 6 (I've forgotten exactly) 4 foot 40 watt tubes.
With 400 speed b&w film, rated at 200, at f8, shutters speeds were around
1/15 second. (I used it almost exclusively for medium format people
shots: head shots to 3/4 length, individuals to groups of no more than
4.)

> What make would you recommend (UK)?

Can't help you. I'm in the US.


Stef

In article <m8ibj.17084$R92.4158@newsfe16.phx>, Stefan Patric
<tootek2@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Do you know anything about studio portrait lighting or any artificial
> lighting techniques? If not, there are three categories of lighting you
> should be familiar with, first: Natural Light, that is NO artificial
> lights, just the sun and skylight; Classic or Traditional; and Glamour
> and Theatrical. So, before making any lighting purchases, become
> familiar with what type of lighting you'll be using the most.

For portraiture, you don't need a ton of power unless you're lighting
big groups.

> FYI: In my 30 year career as a commercial photographer, for most any type
> of portrait I was contracted to do, I hardly ever used more than 3 lights
> and a large reflector. Most of the time, less. KISS.

Three should be plenty.

> For fluorescents? Well, the first fluorescent softbox, I built many
> years ago, had 5 or 6 (I've forgotten exactly) 4 foot 40 watt tubes.
> With 400 speed b&w film, rated at 200, at f8, shutters speeds were around
> 1/15 second. (I used it almost exclusively for medium format people
> shots: head shots to 3/4 length, individuals to groups of no more than
> 4.)

I wouldn't recommend fluourescents. The closer you can keep things to
5600K on a consistent basis, the better off you'll be in the long run
for repeatable results.

On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 21:43:19 -0800, Mr. Strat wrote:

> In article <m8ibj.17084$R92.4158@newsfe16.phx>, Stefan Patric
> <tootek2@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> [snip]
>> For fluorescents? Well, the first fluorescent softbox, I built many
>> years ago, had 5 or 6 (I've forgotten exactly) 4 foot 40 watt tubes.
>> With 400 speed b&w film, rated at 200, at f8, shutters speeds were
>> around 1/15 second. (I used it almost exclusively for medium format
>> people shots: head shots to 3/4 length, individuals to groups of no
>> more than 4.)
>
> I wouldn't recommend fluourescents. The closer you can keep things to
> 5600K on a consistent basis, the better off you'll be in the long run
> for repeatable results.

For film, standard fluorescents do cause problems, but only to the
inexperienced. With digital cameras, a manual white balance will correct
most of the off-color with the final tweaks done in post. However, there
are true Daylight balanced tubes that work quite well. They are also
available in 3200K, standard tungsten.

Stef

In article <WVBbj.48864$KU2.8614@newsfe11.phx>, Stefan Patric
<tootek2@yahoo.com> wrote:

> For film, standard fluorescents do cause problems, but only to the
> inexperienced. With digital cameras, a manual white balance will correct
> most of the off-color with the final tweaks done in post. However, there
> are true Daylight balanced tubes that work quite well. They are also
> available in 3200K, standard tungsten.

My first recommendation would be strobes with modeling lights.

But fluorescents, even the daylight tubes you buy in most stores, still
aren't 5600K. If someone is going to do any kind of work on a regular
basis using artificial lighting, they'd be best off with something that
is 5600K.