In article <595q749j9aqp5cn1909f8euih78qoj4uem@4ax.com>, me@mine.net
wrote:
> >http://www.mhmyers.com/d80/DSC_11550w.jpg
> >
> >OK, not sharp as a tack but it was windy, my tripod was fully extended
> >and at that magnification, I grabbed what I could.
>
>
> This is with your spotting scope, right? Did you try iso1600 or even
> pushing it if the D80 supports it? Shutter speed is quite low for such
> magnification and the results shows what I might suspect first to be
> unsharpness due to motion blur.
>
> As to sharpening you might just sharpen the luminance channel. You might
> consider using even the free version of Neat Image to deal with noise and
> use it's sharpening of the luminance channel as a start as well. I tend to
> mildly do this and the apply some sharpening as my final step in PS as
> well. Also, PSCS has a bicubic sharper resizing algorithm that helps when
> shrinking such images as well. I don't remember if earlier versions have
> this.
>
> Overall pretty nice shot given the f.l.
Yes, with my Fieldscope 82. I thought shutter priority 1/500 should be
enough and I didn't want to go to ISO1600. Looking back, I believe you
are correct, and 1/500 could well be slow for a focal length of 1500mm.
I don't know what sharpening luminence channel means. Can it be done
with Elements?
On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 19:06:25 -0400, in rec.photo.digital M-M
<nospam.m-m@ny.more> wrote:
>Yes, with my Fieldscope 82. I thought shutter priority 1/500 should be
>enough and I didn't want to go to ISO1600. Looking back, I believe you
>are correct, and 1/500 could well be slow for a focal length of 1500mm.
I find it's very tough to get better than 1/fl sec at 800mm in all but the
brightest of lighting, even with VR using the 200-400 f/4VR + TC2E at full
resolution. Very easy to apply bicubic sharper to resize smaller and get
sharper/smaller images. But the goal should be to get sharp original
resolution images. The Bard Owl images I posted links too showed exactly
this lack of sharpness at full resolution, shot in the early morning under
full cover of foliage. IIRC the original crop was ~1900 tall and the image
I posted was 1024 tall. This made a discernibly noticeable difference in
the final result. I wish I'd bumped the iso as I got out of my truck, but
didn't have the time/presence of mind.
>I don't know what sharpening luminence channel means. Can it be done
>with Elements?
me@mine.net wrote:
> M-M wrote:
>
>> I don't know what sharpening luminence channel means. Can it be done
>> with Elements?
>
> OK, thought I saw PS6 in the exif, wasn't thinking PSE6. I don't believe
> PSE can convert to CIE LAB space.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lab_color_space
>
> In NI you can separately choose Y/Cr/Cb components to sharpen as well, at
> lest in the paid version.
Try duplicating the layer then set that layers mode to luminance rather
than normal (not sure if elements has that).
M-M wrote:
> In article <bBrfk.17879$Ri.3171@flpi146.ffdc.sbc.com>,
> Paul Furman <paul-@-edgehill.net> wrote:
>
>> Try duplicating the layer then set that layers mode to luminance rather
>> than normal (not sure if elements has that).
>
>
> I can set the blending mode of the layer to a whole list of things,
> "Luminosity" is one of them.
>
> Screenshot:
>
> http://www.netaxs.com/mhmyers/temp/layers.jpg
>
> What does that do?
Right, that's it. I don't know how much it matters for sharpening but
try increasing contrast with curves and the saturation gets adjusted
too, now set that adjustment layer to luminosity and the saturation is
not effected.
If elements doesn't have adjustment layers, just use a duplicate like
you have done.
Re: Blue Grosbeak @ 1500mm 
Linear Mode
