HowToFixComputers.com

abortretryfail · Member Joined: 30 Sep 2006 Posts: 1

Let me start off saying this thread has been extremely useful. I was able to get my presario 2100 apart. I found that one of three prongs on the power adapter had snapped off.

I've got the new part in hand, but in my haste to get the MB out something fell off ... a little black component with "3A 6-3V -/+" being the only distinguishable marks. Any help identifying the component and where to solder it back would be hugely appreciated.

I'll try and post a picture as soon as I find my camera.

Thanks in advance.

- Kevin

stargazer257 · PRO Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 65

Max,

You gave a great description of your problem and solution. Too bad all fixes are not that simple (at least once you figure out what the problem is!!).

Just thinking here, could the plastic on your adapter's plug (that you had to file down) have gotten too warm and distorted (i.e., "mushroomed") itself? Again, just thinking outloud here...

Max Lynn · Guest

Actually, what I assumed had happened is that the contact on the laptop side
lost some of its spring or got distorted ( I confess to having abused the
plug while it was connected). As a result, it think the plastic began to be
the only contact rather than the metal band. The contact is obviously a
weak point, and may eventually fail completely, but I'll know what is wrong
at that point. Your suggestion may be true as well. This is not a robust
design.

Max Lynn

"stargazer257" <no@spam.invalid> wrote in message
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Wanzi · Contributor Joined: 09 Nov 2005 Posts: 8

It's almost 1 year later and I find myself surfing back to this thead through dumb luck! For those that missed it, my 1st posts in this thread are key toward fixing this problem on your own... others have posted and really helped out as well from what I've read.

KK, It worked for almost a whole year and now my replacement powerjack fryed out on me. I can take it all apart and go through that hastle again, or I can get a docking station. Being that these powerjacks from the manufacturer and the replacement powerjack from Ebay lasts ~1 year in my case, I'm going to buy a port replicator / docking station tomorrow.

So those of you know, either of those are indifferent to your problem as they both power your laptop through different means, that being the "docking connector" on the bottom of your laptop. Docking Stations are more expensive because they have the ability to harness 1 or 2 pci cards for expansion. So if you just want it to work w/out losing capacitors like 2 have mentioned, or ripping one of the fans off like I did (but resoldered it back on) you should seriously think about getting a Port Replicator. I would be dead against that suggestion, however... if those jacks still go bad after replacing them w/ a laptop that's stationary it's not worth the aggrevation 1ce a year to deal with IMHO.

GG
- Wanzi

fetty0565 · Member Joined: 27 Oct 2006 Posts: 2

I got the case open and I can't get the old connector out HELP!!!!!!!!!

fetty0565 · Member Joined: 27 Oct 2006 Posts: 2

I also can't get two of the three prongs out of the motherboard, so that I can get the new one in. Is there any tricks to getting these out???? Also, Do I have to solder it once I get it in ??

stargazer257 · PRO Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 65

Wanzi · Contributor Joined: 09 Nov 2005 Posts: 8

My port Replicator is sexy! W00t, no more ongoing issues w/ this crap and it fits in my Laptop carrying case. I'm excited about it... Anyways. I had a relatively large sottering gun compared to others used in this thread, 30 volts I think. Heat up that pos prong thing till it's blazing, and pullem out w/ needle nose pliers.

ikenfixit

Solder wick and a 40W iron works well to clear the thru-holes also and then you just put the new jack in and resolder.. Be sure on the Athlon boards to solder the trace on the top side as this is where the positive connects on this revision. Mouser.com or digi-key for the 2.5mm jacks.
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Ken LaDere, Owner
www.ikenfixit.com
www.howtofixlaptops.com
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mike · Guest

ikenfixit wrote:

RobBob · Guest

Well, thanks for the info in this thread. I've just found an issue with
a bad jack/plug that I compounded with a cheap knock off supply
replacement. With the info I've found here and on Compaq's site I'm
going to do the repair myself.

Just thought I'd throw a few things out for those attempting the
same...

_PART_INFO_
'Laptopjacks.com' (http://www.laptopjacks.com) has info for DC input
jacks for all kinds of machines. Am I the only one that finds a site
devoted to this issue amusing? Anyway, it gives you a part number to
go with even if you don't order from them (they're pricey @ $8ea and
$8S&H for a one-off item). For compaq presario 2100 series laptops,
the part appears to be 'CQ21325'
(http://www.laptopjacks.com/view_part.php?id=CQ21325)

_SOLDERING_TIPS_
Generally speaking, you want high heat for short periods of time. The
solder should liquify almost instantly. Sustained heat on a PCB is not
a good thing and can damage pads/traces.

Use pure solder, not resin core stuff. It's bulky, it makes a mess and
isn't necessary on PCB soldering.

To remove solder, a de-soldering tool (like a mini turkey baster) can
suck up liquid (molten) solder or you can use solder-wick (copper mesh
that absorbes solder).

When removing defective components, I find it easier to snip them off
at the legs/pins and remove the individual legs one at a time instead
of trying to get the entire thing out together.

When soldering, I find it best to heat the pin/wire and apply solder to
the pin. This avoids heat transfer to the board as much as possible.

Solder joints should taper up like a hershey's kiss, not mound up like
a bubble. It should also be shiny. Dull/low-luster solder "balls" are
usually cold solder joints and are not dependable, particularly on
something that will see some abuse.

--
RobBob
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RobBob · Guest

I almost forgot... Did anyone notice the discrepancy between the
computer's designated DC power requirements and the output power of the
AC adapter?

The guy at the service shop brought this up. The web site and adapter
itself indicate 90Watts (18.5Vdc@4.9A) required. The computer's DC
input sticker (on the bottom) indicates that it needs 75Watts
(19Vdc@3.95A).

Should it make a difference, I'm using a 2175US model, product#DK576A.

--
RobBob
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